Hardy Bamboo Information
Bamboo Consultation
We are happy to help you choose the right plants for your location and sun exposure. We have designed public spaces, common space and advise architects, landscape designers and landscape architects as well as homeowners. Call Michel for a consultation.
THE MYTH ABOUT BAMBOO:
Stick it in the ground and it will take over! In truth, bamboo needs
routine care and attention the first two to three years until
the rhizome system becomes established. After this, the bamboo can fend
for itself if need be. It will always respond to extra care, however, and
the rewards can be stunning. Each cane emerges from the ground
at its mature thickness. Bamboo will produce larger canes in height
and diameter each year until it reaches its maximum potential. But the
canes themselves never get thicker after emerging from the ground.
To encourage new growth, it is important to
adequately feed and water your plants to ensure large, healthy, and robust
growth the following spring.
We recommend the following books:
CONTAINING YOUR BAMBOO
There are several successful strategies for containing bamboo. Groundcover types are the easiest, needing only a shallow barrier. Generally speaking, the taller the species the more complex your strategy must become. There are a few natural barriers for bamboo - extreme moisture, a pond, river or stream, extreme dryness. Here at Seven Arrows stands of Phyllostachys planted in areas bound by a gravel drive in one case and a gravel path in another have yet to escape these barriers after ten years in the same space. That's not to say it won't be more aggressive where you live, so plan accordingly. Some nursery owner friends of ours have a horror story involving brand new asphalt paving and running bamboo, so be advised: IT WILL SPREAD! That said, this shouldn't deter you from planting bamboo, provided you've thought it through and have a good strategy. Here's the recommended method - Consider the ultimate size of the area you want your bamboo grove to fill. Dig a 3' trench around the entire area. (Better yet if it's not too large, dig out the entire area to 3' deep. This is when you thank the gods for heavy equipment!) Use a thick UV resistant plastic sheeting, at least 40 mil in thickness. Specific liners are sold for this purpose (we sell them -call for pricing). Line the entire perimeter, making sure to overlap any seams by at least 12". Plant as explained below. Instead of the plastic, a concrete wall will work well. Don't make the mistake of thinking that by planting the bamboo in the pot you bought it in will either contain your plant (it will find its way out the drainage holes, if it already isn't poking its roots out) or allow the plant to thrive. These are plants born to roam.
PLANTING YOUR BAMBOO
• Dig a hole twice the width of the container size and
the same depth as the pot.
• Add a few inches of well-rotted or bagged compost or manure into
the bottom of the hole and mix into soil. (Make sure the manure is well
rotted to avoid burning the root system).
• Plant your bamboo level with the existing soil. Never deeper!
• Water thoroughly.
• Cover the planting with two to three inches of bark or
compost to keep moisture levels high and insulate the planting through
winter.
• New plantings require regular water the first two to three years
• Water thoroughly once or twice a week depending on
weather conditions.
• For a running bamboo, make sure to saturate the soil around the entire
planting area to allow for rhizome expansion.
• For a clumping bamboo, it is only necessary to water around the base
of the plant, as you would a tree or shrub.
• Once the bamboo is established, water one to two inches per
week during the growing season (May through September).
• Bamboo will show signs of water stress (lack of water) by curling its
leaves up in a "V" shape. Water the plant immediately if this is
noticed.
• Do not over-water your bamboo. Make sure the planting has adequate
drainage. Most bamboo will not grow well in
water-logged soils. In cases where the natural soils are soggy, use water
tolerant bamboo species. Generally, symptoms of over-watered bamboo or
bamboo planted in a wet site are excess yellowing foliage, rotting new
canes and leaf tip die back.
Good fertilization practices are one of the most important aspects in maintaining a healthy bamboo grove. As the largest member of the grass family (Poaceae), bamboo is in constant need of a good nutrient supply. We recommend the following fertilization regimen for optimal growth of your bamboo groves.
• BEGINNING OF MARCH (or when weather warms)
Apply an organic liquid fertilizer, high in nitrogen, such as liquid
seaweed to your bamboo groves. The first number in the series of three
numbers found on any fertilizer package indicates the percentage of
nitrogen in the product. You are looking for a ratio of approximately
3:1:2. Fertilizers formulated for lawns are usually quite compatible with
bamboo. Be sure to follow the directions given by the manufacturer when
applying the product. Apply the organic liquid feed every week until May.
• BEGINNING OF MAY
Apply an organic fertilizer to feed the groves throughout the remainder of
the year. Again, most organic lawn fertilizers will have the perfect
nutrient formulation for your bamboo. NEVER use commercial weed & feed
formulations. This will kill your bamboo!
THINNING OR TRIMMING YOUR BAMBOO
• Bamboo can be kept as thin or as dense as desired.
Once a particular cane tip is trimmed, it will never again gain
in height.
• Always keep a combination of new and old canes in the grove. For a
healthy grove of timber bamboo, remove old, dying, dead, weak and
leaning canes, but never remove more than 30% from the grove.
• Bamboo can be "legged-up" or trimmed from the base of the
cane upwards to provide more air circulation and increase the amount
of sunlight on the rhizome system. This will promote earlier shoot
initiation and show off the beauty of the canes themselves.
• Clear-cut or mow groundcover bamboo (not the
tall species) at the end of February to the first of March
to get rid of old canes and maintain a compact appearance. The new
growth to follow will be healthy, vibrant, and outstanding in
appearance.
"Have a compassionate heart towards all
creatures" - Ko Hung
There are very few pests and diseases which affect the temperate bamboo species. With proper care and management most pest problems can be avoided all-together. Listed below are the more common vectors and general remedies for controlling them:
INSECTS
• Bamboo Mites: Bamboo
mites are a specific pest of bamboo. Native to Japan, they have no known
predators indigenous to the U.S. The best way to avoid these mites is to
buy plant material guaranteed mite free! In the event of a mite
infestation occurring, use a miticide, spraying the lower side of the
foliage thoroughly. Several applications may be necessary for complete
eradication.
• Aphids: Aphid infestations can occur at any
time on any bamboo. When bamboo groves are congested and overgrown this
exacerbates the problem. Sooty mold is the tell tale sign of an aphid
infestation resulting from the honeydew deposited by the aphids. Sooty
mold is characterized by a black shiny covering on the upper surface of
the bamboo leaf. Most soap based insecticides work well on aphid
out-breaks.
• Slugs and Snails:
Slugs and snails feed on the tender new shoots of the bamboo, making small
holes in the new canes. As these canes harden, the holes often become
larger, destabilizing the strength of the cane as a whole. Some species
are particularly prone although this doesn't seem to be a big problem here
on the East Coast. If slugs appear to be a problem apply slug bait around
the groves in late winter and again in the spring to discourage activity. We love and sell Sluggo brand here at Seven Arrows,
although it's principal application around these parts is for hosta
protection.
FURRY FOUR LEGGEDS: Bamboos are
most vulnerable to damage by animals when they are new plantings. There
are exceptions to every rule. In the Pacific Northwest large bamboos are
particularly affected by vole infestations. Voles have been known to
topple large established canes by compromising the anchor roots found at
the base of the cane. They eat all the established and newly emerging buds
and rhizomes. This leaves a large running timber bamboo susceptible to
toppling in winds and heavy rains. Here are a few suggestions for
protecting your bamboos as they're getting established.
• Livestock such as chickens, goats, cattle, horses,
and deer can become fond of bamboo as fodder. Although high in
protein, nutritious and delicious, the outcome of this type of foraging
may not be desirable. Planting outside the reach of livestock is the
prudent way to avoid the issue. Planting within an animal's foraging area
is a personal choice. Coyote Urine Powder is thought to be a good
organic repellent for deer.
• Rabbits: Rabbits can be a nuisance to new
plantings by eating the new shoots and young leaves. Try fencing in
the plants when they are small to keep the rabbits away.
• Voles: Voles are
tiny meadow mice with big teeth that love to feed on bamboo shoots and
rhizomes. Keeping the lower branches trimmed up on the bamboo and
the ground clean under the bamboo will help take away the voles'
natural cover and make them more susceptible to predators. If you suspect
that you have a vole infestation keep all leaf litter and mulch away from
the affected bamboo. Vole runs are characterized by one-inch entry and
exit tunnels and shallow subterranean runs. If you find canes falling or
blowing over, check around the base of the planting to reveal the
tell-tale tunnels or runs. Sprinkling Fox Urine Powder is thought to be a
natural repellent for voles and other small critters.
Special thanks to BooShoot Gardens for letting us share some of their fabulous information about bamboo!